Surf Reports: a beginner’s interpretation

I’ve GOT to start reading surf reports! Also, I think I’m becoming spoiled living on Kauai and surfing nearly every day.  The last two days have been “junk”. Now if you’d have asked me 4 months ago, I would have been stoked about my surf experiences. After all, I caught a few good waves and rode my board for more than just a few seconds; two things that were not very easy when I started surfing back in July. Minor disclaimer: yes, I tried surfing a handful of times (<10) last summer when I was here, but I didn’t own a board and the frequency of my surfing was so irregular that I don’t think it counts.

In any case, the conditions the last two days have been too windy for ideal surfing. However, I still have the mindset that I need to get out there every day because, 1) I’m learning and need to get out there as often as I can for practice and 2) I can… and not everyone is so fortunate. In fact, in less than 3 week, I won’t be able to as my season on Kauai is about to be traded in for the ski season of Utah. But this post is going to be about reading surf reports and how that affects surf conditions… at least from my novice perspective.

Today’s surf report looked like this on Surfline.com:

I’m still learning how to read these reports, but here’s what I know so far. (And readers if you want to share more about reading these reports I’d love to hear what you find important or helpful!)

The top set of data shows the height of the waves throughout the day. Now here in Hawaii we have a different standard by which we measure the waves. Whereas most of the world measures waves based on their height when the surfer looks backward at the wave they are about the catch, here in Hawaii the waves are measured by the height on the backside of the wave. What’s the difference? This picture demonstrates:

As you can see the Hawaiian standard is about half the height of what the rest of the world would measure.  I’m not completely sure if Surfline takes this measurement variation into account, but the reported height for today’s waves (1-2 ft) seems to be the norm for my break at Leftlefts and based on what I always seem to ride on these days; I believe it refers to the Hawaiian standard.

The next set of data is what made today’s surf sesh junk. This is the wind report. Wind is tricky. It can make conditions better if coming in the right direction at an ideal speed. I’m still learning about this, but I THINK the best conditions would be a slight offshore wind. This is when the wind is blowing off the shore out to sea. This helps to hold the face of the wave open a little longer so its is usually easier to ride those waves. Slight trade winds are also fine, but cause they don’t affect the shape of the waves too much. No wind is also nice because it allows for “glassy” conditions. This is when the water is like glass and you can easily see into it. (This is also fun because then when you catch a wave you can sometimes see the tropical fish swimming below you!)

However, this report shows strong (ish) winds. I went out around 9-10 am. At that time the winds were blowing 9 kts. This is too much wind. Of course it can get windier, but when the waves are already somewhat small (remember 1-2 ft swells as reported in the first data set), 9 knots of wind disturbs the waves. It makes the water choppy and this changes the direction of the ocean’s energy in the shape of the waves.

To illustrate this phenomena, I’ll post two pictures. This first drawing shows me at Leftlefts (a reef break near a rock pile) on a calm day. Notice the break is predictable because the ocean’s energy creates a wave that consistently comes from the same direction.

This next picture shows conditions on a windy day.

Even if the wind comes from the same direction, it has disturbed the water enough that the energy in the form of waves breaks on the rock pile from varying directions. This makes it harder to read when a wave is going to be good to catch. I’ll spend most of my surf sesh sitting on the board rather than riding it. Sometimes, I’m happy to just get out on the water and enjoy the gorgeous backdrop of Kauai… but as I mentioned, I might be getting spoiled. Sometimes I want consistent, surf-able waves.

The last graph on the surf report show the high and low tides. As I mentioned I was surfing around 9-10am. This is during a rising tide according to this graphic and I prefer to surf during rising tides. Tides can greatly affect the surf as well, but that’s another topic for another day. 😉

Fiberglass Mo’Bettah

I’m a new surfer, but here’s the story about how I graduated from foam to fiberglass in early August 2013. 

My Japanese Uncle with his surfboard and a rainbow.

Two days ago a truck started slowly creeping next to me along my walk to the beach. I have a 15-20 minute walk from my studio to the beach where I surf during which I carry my foam surfboard (known around here as a Doyle) on my head. I looked at the truck and didn’t recognize the driver, but he had some words for me. He told me that I needed to get a fiberglass board. It’d be “Mo’bettah, yeah.”

I smiled and replied that I’m new and didn’t think I was ready for a fiberglass board yet, but thanked him for the advice. Then he said, “I see you down here every day. How new are you?”

“I’ve been going 4-5 times a week for about a month.”

“You need to get a fiberglass board. It’ll be better for catching waves. Where you ride?”

“At Sheraton Beach.”

“That’s ok, but you should get on bigger waves too.”

Again, I smiled and thanked the older Japanese guy or, as they say here on Kauai, the Japanese uncle. During our brief conversation, I had begun to wonder why the truck lingering behind him didn’t seem to be getting annoyed at our conversation. But I should have known better; after all this is Hawaii where the aloha spirit seems to be ubiquitous. The Japanese uncle took off and, to my surprise, the next truck also slowed down to chat with me. This time is was my friend Logan’s roommate. Peter smiled and told me I need to take Logan out with me. I yelled back that she doesn’t have a board and would need to borrow his. He smiled, waved a shocka, and agreed. I continued my walk to the beach and felt a sense of pride that I now was being noticed for my daily walk to the beach with a  board on my head.

When I arrived at the beach about 7 minutes later, the Japanese uncle was waiting for me. He started up a conversation in which I learned his name was Royden and he seems to be an unofficial Poipu Beach ambassador. He picks up trash that’s been littered on the beach, helps to place the temporary fences around monk seals when they come on shore, and seems to be a generally good guy. He convinced me to give up Sheratons and try surfing between the breaks known as Leftlefts and Waiohai. He pointed it out and gave me tips about how to paddle out. I was a little intimidated but he was so certain that this was what I need to do, that I felt encouraged. I couldn’t NOT do this after his good will… so I followed his advice and positioned myself between the two breaks.

I found myself amidst some HUGE waves; well… huge for me. Some of the ones that came through were about 6 feet tall (front side). I tried to turtle under (turn my board upside-down) or time my paddling to ride over the foam after the break. I also caught 3-4 waves and felt immense pride at finally getting among the big  boys. In being out there I also got a few smiles from other surfers so that, even though I wasn’t surfing with anyone else, I felt like I was exposing myself to a community that would (hopefully) soon be welcoming me.

There were a few scary moments too. Some of those gigantic waves crashed hard on me. At one point while pushed under the water, my leash wrapped around my other foot so that my feet were bound together. I momentarily freaked out while wondering if I would be able to surface before running out of breath. Also, since I now had to rely on my arms to help me surface, how would I adequately protect my face from potential hazards when I surfaced? But I DID surface before running out of air. And nothing smashed into my face upon surfacing. Lesson learned: keep calm and surf on.

Then, after taking a day off from surfing I was excited to return to the water. I was contemplating whether or not I would return to the break that Royden had suggested or play it safe (per my sister’s suggestion) and return to the baby waves of Sheraton Beach. My decision was made for me when, along my walk, Royden again pulled over and said, “I have a board for you. Let me go get it. Wait for me at the beach.”

When he returned not only did he have a fiberglass board for me to try, but he also gave me a bouquet of fragrant white ginger flowers and some fresh lilikoi (passion fruit). Best morning ever! As he was giving me all this bounty, some tourist came up to Royden and gave him something that, based on their conversation, was a special fishing lure from San Diego. It turns out Royden had helped them in the past and the tourist was returning the good will. This made me feel better about what Royden was doing for me; maybe he really was just a great beach ambassador.

As for the new board… I have it on indefinite loan. We swapped numbers so he can get it back whenever, but I’m sure he realizes that he’ll continue to see me on the beach with his property. The board confirms my addiction to surfing. It was the first time I felt like a real surfer. It catches the waves more and really digs into the water whereas the doyle floats on top of the waves. I had a harder time adjusting when sitting on the board and dangling my legs. The board is narrower and thus more tippy. I actually caught a few waves that first time out on the fiberglass board. I also doubled my normal hour in the water because I was having such a good time. Perhaps everyone on the water was friendly that day or maybe it was my huge smile, but during the inaugural surf sesh, I met a few other surfers and SUP’ers (stand up paddleboarders), thus growing my surf community on Kauai’s south side. I love this place. I love my life and all the people I keep encountering.

Beginning to surf: some of my early commentary

Before I started this blog, I was reflecting on my surfing and noting new achievements on a Google calendar. It wasn’t a great format but I wasn’t ready to commit to blogging about it either. Here’s a few of those reflections:

8/14/2013 – Surfing at Kitchens (Kauai’s East Side): First time on sand break. Really different as the waves look choppier but this is because the waves just keep changing places rather than have a singular wave with one predictable front. Need to be quicker in positioning for the wave, but this place didn’t require as much paddling bc the waves were powerful enough to just take you if you were in the right position. Rode a couple waves to shore with a big smile.

8/26/2013 – Wailua Beach (still Kauai’s East Side): First time at this beach. It’s a sand break, so the waves change location continuously. They were also really strong so strategy had to be employed when paddling out. Caught several waves and even tried to start riding sideways (as opposed to straight lines) on the board. Had some difficulties at shore cuz the waves were still so powerful.

8/28/2013 – LeftLefts (Kauai’s South Shore): Surfed from 9:00am – 9:45. The tide was rising and would peak at 10:23.I’m noticing that higher tides make it harder to see the big waves approaching. Only stood up 2-3 times for short rides. Finally a swell started to bring in some big waves. I was about to ride one when it charged into me and I wasn’t ready for it.  My board was grabbed from me and as my board and I were tossed about the fin crushed against my left calf. Surprised I only bled a little at my ankle. Thought my calf would be cut cuz while assessing from the water it looked indented by the fin, but looks like a nasty bruise is about to form. Came in after that, but the pain went away shortly after. Still smiling and should have stayed longer. [2-3ft swells at 14s S / winds 7 from NE /]

When I first started noting my surf sessions on this calendar I was mostly interested in where I surfed and what seemed to work or not work. Then I started looking at a tide calendar and surf reports to see how conditions may be affecting my surfing. With all this data it became difficult to write about my surfing without adding some reflection. At that point it became clear to me that a calendar is probably not the right format for my efforts. It’s taken a little longer than it should, but I think the blog will probably be more appropriate.

About this blog

Today is my birthday. I’ve been toying with the idea of starting a blog for a while now, but I chose this day because it’s pretty much the only one during which you can be self-centered without being seen as egotistical. I worry that by blogging about my undertakings I run the risk of sounding self-absorbed. But I also think my stories of adventure, misadventure, and self-reflection could (and maybe should) entertain a larger audience than just myself. And thus begins what I’m calling: The Adventures of a Curious Chameleon.

Adventures: You’ll have to trust me on this one, but essentially, I view the last two years of my life as a series of adventures that keeps me smiling and twitchin’ for more. The backdrop for these range from isolated ski canyons, to naughty NYC night clubs, to pristine Hawaiian surf breaks. I’ve journaled about some of the more exciting and meaningful past escapades, so I intend to mix some of those amongst the adventures that await still to come.

Curious: Simply put: I’m curious. I look forward to my weekly trips to the library and self-regulate the number of books I can check out because there is no way to read everything I want to by its return date AND still have time for everything life slings my way. I also think that my curiosity is why I view life as a series of adventures. It’s my quest to answer why? Or how? that usually results in me finding myself in… interesting situations.

Chameleon: Several lifetimes ago I was a high school teacher. A new teacher in my department had unofficially chosen me as a mentor. As a young teacher myself, I dressed more professional than was required and I think he saw me as being a very serious, yet approachable colleague. One day, during profession development, we started talking about life outside of work. He had such difficulty juxtaposing his perception of my profession self with the hippy, co-op living, Madisonian college student that I was describing. He called me a chameleon and I loved it. I’m sure he didn’t think twice about this comment, but I consider it a huge complement and one of the best assessments of who I am. I love the richness that life provides and I try to experience as much of it as I can in an authentic manner. I feel equally comfortable interacting with my soybean-farming second cousins of western Minnesota as I do with members of Manhattan’s millionaire magnate club.

So let me begin: The Adventures of a Curious Chameleon.